Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Eye Make-up - is the color safe?

Bright and neon colors for eyes are the latest trend in shadows, liners and mascara so we thought it was time to take another look at these products.  Your eyes and the skin around them is very sensitive.  The skin on your eyelid is the thinnest on your body.  The rims of your eyes have both epithelial skin and mucosal skin, which has no barrier into your body.  This means these areas have more of a chance to be absorbed into your body. You want to always be sure the make-up you put in this area will be safe, with no toxic ingredients.  You may also see a disclaimer on some of the brightest shades saying "not intended for use in the immediate eye area"  So, how do manufacturers create those bright colors?  It's the color additives.  How do you know which ones are safe?

The FDA, while still having a long way to go in looking at cosmetic ingredients in general, is very strict about cosmetic color additives.  They have a long list of these, which we have copied below for your convenience.  If your make-up product lists a color additive not on this list, then it is not obeying the law and is likely not safe.

Now take a second look regarding your eye make-up.  ONLY those color additives which state specifically "including eye area use" have been deemed safe by the FDA for use in eye shadows, mascaras & liners. Notice too that most of the D&C colors are NOT approved for use around the eyes.  Generally, they are not approved because they may cause an allergic reaction like itching, swelling or a rash.  They may also stain the skin.  This means you need to be careful with the bright & neon colors.  .While most people will be able to use even the brightest neon without a reaction, if you find your body reacts even a little bit, pay attention and quit using it.

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Color Additives Approved for Use in Cosmetics
Part 73, Subpart C: Color additives exempt from batch certification
21 CFR SectionStraight ColorYear ApprovedUses and Restrictions
§73.2030Annatto1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2085Caramel1981Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2087Carmine1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2095ß-Carotene1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2110Bismuth citrate1978Cosmetics intended for coloring hair on the scalp only NTE(7) 0.5 percent.
2010Cosmetics intended for coloring hair on the scalp only NTE(7) 2.0 percent.
§73.2120Disodium EDTA-copper1974Coloring of shampoos that are cosmetics.
§73.2125Potassium sodium copper chlorophyllin (chlorophyllin copper-complex)1969Coloring dentifrices that are cosmetics NTE(7) 0.1% in combination with a list of substances.
§73.2150Dihydroxyacetone1973Externally applied cosmetics(6) intended solely or in part to impart color to the human body.
§73.2162Bismuth oxychloride1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2180Guaiazulene1977Externally applied cosmetics(6).
§73.2190Henna1965Coloring hair but not eyelashes, eyebrows, or eye area.
§73.2250Iron oxides1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2298Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide1977Externally applied cosmetics(6) including eye area use.
§73.2299Ferric ferrocyanide1978Externally applied cosmetics(6) including eye area use.
§73.2326Chromium hydroxide green1977Externally applied cosmetics(6) including eye area use.
§73.2327Chromium oxide greens1977Externally applied cosmetics(6) including eye area use.
§73.2329Guanine1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2396Lead acetate1981Cosmetics intended for coloring hair on the scalp only, NTE(7) 0.6 percent Pb (weight/volume).
§73.2400Pyrophyllite1973Externally applied cosmetics(6).
§73.2496Mica1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2500Silver 1979Coloring fingernail polish NTE(7) 1% of final product.
§73.2575Titanium dioxide1973Cosmetics including eye area use.
§73.2645Aluminum powder1977Externally applied cosmetics(6) including eye area use.
§73.2646Bronze powder1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2647Copper powder1977Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2725Ultramarines1976Externally applied cosmetics(6) including eye area use.
§73.2775Manganese violet1976Cosmetics generally(5) including eye area use.
§73.2991Zinc oxide1977Cosmetics including eye area use.
§73.2995Luminescent zinc sulfide 2000Nail polish and externally applied facial makeup(6) NTE(7) 10% of final product for limited, occasional use.

Color Additives Approved for Use in Cosmetics
Part 74, Subpart C: Color additives subject to batch certification
21 CFR SectionStraight ColorYearApprovedUses and Restrictions
§74.2052D&C Black No. 22004Eyeliner, brush-on-brow, eye shadow, mascara, lipstick, blushers and rouge, makeup and foundation, and nail enamel.
§74.2053D&C Black No. 3 2007Eyeliner, eye shadow, mascara, and face powder.
§74.2101FD&C Blue No. 11982Cosmetics generally(5).
1993Allows MnO2 in manufacture.
1994Eye area use (includes lake).
§74.2104D&C Blue No. 41977Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2151D&C Brown No. 11976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2203FD&C Green No. 31982Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2205D&C Green No. 51982Cosmetics generally(5).
1994Eye area use.
§74.2206D&C Green No. 61982Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2208D&C Green No. 81976Externally applied cosmetics(6) (NTE(7) 0.01% (by wt) of finished cosmetic product).
§74.2254D&C Orange No. 41977Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2255D&C Orange No. 51984Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
1982Mouthwashes, dentifrices, lipsticks, and other lip cosmetics NTE(7) 5 percent.
§74.2260D&C Orange No. 101981Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2261D&C Orange No. 111981Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2304FD&C Red No. 41976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2306D&C Red No. 61983Cosmetics generally (5).
2012Ether-soluble matter specification changed to 1-[(4-methylphenyl)azo]-2-naphthalenol, not more than 0.015 percent.
§74.2307D&C Red No. 71983Cosmetics generally (5).
2012Ether-soluble matter specification changed to 1-[(4-methylphenyl)azo]-2-naphthalenol, not more than 0.015 percent.
§74.2317D&C Red No. 171976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2321D&C Red No. 211982Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2322D&C Red No. 221982Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2327D&C Red No. 271982Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2328D&C Red No. 281982Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2330D&C Red No. 301982Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2331D&C Red No. 311976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2333D&C Red No. 331988Externally applied cosmetics(6) ; mouthwashes, dentifrices; cosmetic lip products (NTE(7) 3% (by wt) of finished cosmetic product).
§74.2334D&C Red No. 341976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2336D&C Red No. 361988Externally applied cosmetics(6); cosmetic lip products (NTE(7) 3% (by wt) of finished cosmetic product).
§74.2340FD&C Red No. 401975Cosmetics generally(5).
1994Eye area use (includes Al lake). No oxidizing or reducing agents that may affect integrity.
§74.2602D&C Violet No. 21976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2602aExt. D&C Violet No. 21976Externally applied cosmetics(6) .
§74.2705FD&C Yellow No. 51985Cosmetics generally(5).
1994Eye area use (includes Al lake).
§74.2706FD&C Yellow No. 61986Cosmetics generally (5).
§74.2707D&C Yellow No. 71976Externally applied cosmetics(6).
§74.2707aExt. D&C Yellow No. 71976Externally applied cosmetics(6).
§74.2708D&C Yellow No. 81976Externally applied cosmetics(6).
§74.2710D&C Yellow No. 101983Cosmetics generally (5).
1984Modification of uses and restrictions.
§74.2711D&C Yellow No. 111976Externally applied cosmetics(6).

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