A good powder eye shadow is heavily pigmented. The color reveals itself with the first stroke and will not fade. As a rule, matte eye shadow has a more sheer texture, while shimmer (in the form of mica particles) gives eye shadow a rich texture that intensifies its color.
For easy application, and to increase staying powder, prime your eyelids with foundation or some eye cream followed by powder. Apply thin layers of eye shadow with a dry sponge applicator, and then blend with a brush. This way you avoid eye shadow falling off the brush onto your face and spoiling your facial makeup. You also keep your brushes clear of color and ready for blending.
Use a rounded applicator to apply your base color, and a pointed applicator for contouring shades. For blending you will need:
- a thick springy flat brush for applying highlighter and for precise blending.
- a soft rounded brush for erasing demarcation lines by removing excess makeup.
Liquid or creamy eye shadow should have a lightweight texture that is easy to apply and blend. It must dry quickly to avoid it gathering in the creases. Waterproof liquid eye shadow has the best staying power. Fluid texture is best for single color application. Because this type of eye shadow blends so well, don’t use it for more than two colors, as three shades will create a greyish mess on your eyelids. It may also occur if you use fluid creamy eye shadow together with creamy eyeliner, or an eye pencil that is too soft. Apply creamy eye shadow with your fingertip. Blend it with a sponge applicator, or with a small synthetic brush.
Improve & fix flaws with eye shadow
To make small eyes look bigger, don’t outline the contour of your eye with a dark color. Apply shimmery base eye shadow on the entire mobile lid. Highlight with a light iridescent shade under the eyebrow and in the inside corner and contour of the eye to define its outer corner. Instead of dark eye shadow along the lashes, use eyeliner along and beyond the upper lash line to elongate your eyes. Use eyeliner on the lower lid for a festive look.
For protruding eyes, matte eye shadow is preferable to iridescent as a base and contouring color. In the crease, blend contouring color halfway down to the lashes, visibly shrinking the size of the mobile lid. Curling your lashes may be the best remedy to reduce bulginess.
Mature eyes look best with a light base eye shadow all over the eyelid, and a soft highlighter under the eyebrow. Lift your eyes by applying color strictly above your upper eyelid, keeping the sides and lower lid free of base eye shadow. Use brown or grey mascara instead of black.
For Asian eyes, don’t attempt to draw a line above your natural crease with a dark color. Instead, try to create the illusion of eyelids by applying bright shimmery eye shadow on and above the crease. It should occupy about one third of the space between your lashes and your eyebrows. Be aware that this technique works well only if your eyelids aren’t saggy.
Large wide-set eyes look beautiful as they are; smaller ones need some work. Draw your shading line in the crease, close to the inner corner, but don’t deliberately try to make your eyes appear closer by applying dark eye shadow near your nose. Apply eye shadow within the border defined by the eye shape, and don’t whiten your inner corners.